Thoughts On Modern Rock Climbing

I was searching for sample videos from the Canon HG20 and I found by accident this video that was shot at a climbing gym in Germany (I think). If you've ever been to a climbing gym in Toronto, you know they are pretty basic. The gyms are retrofits of older buildings and you don't get much else to do except climb. The service counters sell energy bars and bottled drinks but not much else.

Neulich in Gilching from Deti on Vimeo

This gym in Germany on the other hand looks like it was built from the ground up for climbing. It has a nice little cafe overlooking the gym where parents can wait and watch their kids climb, and where climbers can get refreshments and rest. This is what a climbing gym should be! - Not using old rusty fridges that was dragged in from who knows where.

Before I get lambasted, I understand the climbing culture is very minimalistic and that some people do not want the purity and history of climbing to be devalued by commercialization. Well, the fact is commercialization of climbing is well-underway. With the increasing popularity of climbing, professional climbers that at first only garnered support from specialty climbing equipment companies now attract global companies such as North Face. We have climbing 'rock stars' now in the likes of Chris Sharma who are idolized by young adoring fans through movies and YouTube. Climbing purists can resist all they want but changes are brewing.

It's not only the business that is changing. The nature of climbing is changing too. We're seeing more focus on big power moves (i.e. dynos) which require the climber to generate momentum to gain the next hold. These all-or-nothing moves look extremely impressive on TV but climbing purists will tell you climbing is about efficiency - Yoga on the rocks.

I guess this stems from the past. Climbing equipment has come a long way. It use to be every fall had a potential for serious injury or death. But not anymore. You see professional climbers fall at the crux of their project climb hundreds of time attempting the same move with little concern for their safety.

Things were different in the past. I remember climbing at Metcalfe and expressing disbelief to my climbing partner how incredibly high the first bolts were. The first bolts were literally 30 feet off the ground. Usually, you would place the first bolt at a height that would not result in serious injury or possibly death if you are unable to reach it and fall off. My partner explained Melcalfe was one of the first areas to be climbed in Ontario and back then, you only climbed at your abilities. The height of the first bolt was to discourage anybody from climbing beyond their confidence and abilities. Things have really changed since then.